This is part 2 of our Week One Guide for Summoners War. If you missed please take a look here and in our Guide-Section you will find more Guides for Summoners War.
In Part 2 we talk about the following important topics:
4. Getting the Most from your Crystals and Money
5. What Now?
6. Commonly Used Terms and Abbreviations
Summoners War – Week One Guide
4. Getting the Most from your Crystals and Money
There are people who spend an absurd amount of money on this game, with it not being unheard of for someone to spend $5,000 or more. While the math varies from source to source, some sources claim that you would have to spend as much as $2,500 to buy a nat 5 monster with money alone (and even then it is unlikely to be the one you want). While this strikes me as a little too large of a number, something that is absolutely true is that this game gives you very little for the money that you spend – while you can get an edge with money, unless you spend wheelbarrows full of it a lucky new player will have an edge over an unlucky paying player. Players who do not spend any money are known as F2P, or free-to-play, players. And F2P players have already proven that you can accomplish everything in this game without spending realworld money with careful budgeting and strategy.
While the game gives you relatively little for your realworld cash, it is also very generous with crystals (the in-game currency that is closely associated with realworld cash purchases). Crystals can be used to do a lot of things, and you can earn a lot of crystals in the game for doing things like participating in the game’s events, defeating “rivals” in the arena, doing the daily quests, and completing the daily checkins. While the game gives you generous amounts of crystals, it also seems quite intent on making you waste your crystals. SOME prudent and tempting yet wasteful uses of crystals are as follows.
- Buying premium packs in the “special” tab in the shop IF you don’t already have a ton of really amazing/rare monsters.
- Unlocking slots in the “Magic Shop” (the mana crystal shop you build on your floating island) so that you are more likely to be able to buy mystic scrolls.
- Energy refills IF your account isn’t about to level up. You get a free full energy refill whenever you level up, so try to level up when you have as little energy as possible.
- Crystal Titan IF you are confident you will be playing the game for more than 100-150 days (this is a longterm investment) AND the short-term lack of crystals won’t hinder your progress.
Tempting Yet Wasteful:
- Buying mana directly with crystals. It is more crystal-efficient to buy energy and collect mana in secret dungeons than to buy it directly.
- Buying 2x experience boosters. Many are given out for free, and so many players just wait until they get a free one and THEN use saved-up energy and crystal energy refills to make the most of it. The exception to this rule is if you don’t want to wait, and if you would spend so many crystals on refills that spending half as many crystals (by receiving 2x experience) would pay for the booster.
If you don’t feel like managing your crystals or you have significant disposable income that you want to spend on yourself, then it may be worth it to buy a package. However, be very weary of the packages offered – via the magic of math, you can actually reduce many packages down to their value in crystals and then compare them, and they aren’t even close to each other in terms of value. For example, for $5 you can get 300 crystals over 15 days by buying the Daily Pack I, or alternatively, for $10 you could buy 250 crystals (pay twice as much for 50 less crystals). All of the packages vary greatly in their value, and so be very careful in which you purchase. If you only want to spend a little money, then buy the Starter Packs (they are one-time purchases that are the best value in the game). If you want to spend a little more, then still buy the starter packs but then also buy the Daily Pack I. If you want to spend even more than that then you should probably sleep, but then after that buy all of those things followed by the Daily Pack II. As you spend money though, just keep in mind that (1) just because some packages are much better values than others doesn’t mean that any of them are worth your money, (2) it is literally a gamble and you are likely to get ZERO monsters you want when you spend your money, and (3) decide for yourself what is worth it ahead of time and know that “deals” and other psychological tactics will be used to teach you a habit of purchasing and that longterm if you allow this then you may spend way more than you wanted to (in other words, if it will be a slippery slope for you then don’t walk along its edge – decide clear boundaries and budgets ahead of time and be willing to “miss” a “deal” for the sake of being true to your decisions.)
5. What Now?
Now you play! Or, if you want, you could read any of the many more advanced guides that people have written. However, in theory, this guide should have equipped you with what you need to play the game and have fun without regrets later down the line. If you don’t like just playing and figuring things out for yourself and want more direction then we suggest you next look for a Farming Guide, Rune Guide, or Monster Rating Guide. These topics are incredibly complex and if properly explained would be as long as the entirety of this guide (if not longer).
6. Commonly Used Terms and Abbreviations
Angelmon = Monsters that exist to be sacrificed to other monsters for the purpose of granting experience to those other monsters. These monsters come in every element and are much more effective if awakened and then fed to monsters of the same element.
AO = Arena Offense
AOE = Area of Effect = An attack that hurts all of the enemy monsters (as opposed to only one), or a beneficial effect that effects all the ally monsters (as opposed to only one).
AD = Arena Defense
ATB = Attack Bar = The bar that goes up over time, and when full, allows your monster to take a turn.
CC = Crowd Control = Things that stun, freeze, or put to sleep enemies so that large groups of monsters aren’t able to all take their turns.
CD = Crit Damage = The bonus damage provided by a “critical hit.”
CLEAVE = A term that refers to a set of monster that, when they work together, kills all of the enemy monsters simultaneously in a single turn. Especially, but not necessarily, by attacking the enemies before they can do anything.
COOLDOWN = The number of turns that must pass before a monster is able to use a skill again.
CR = Crit Rate = The percent chance that any given attack will land as a “critical hit”.
DB1/DB2/DB3/…/DB10 = Dragon’s Lair B1/B2/../B10
DD = Damage Dealer = A monster whose role has been deligated to inflict damage.
DEF = Defense = Your monster will take less hit points of damage the higher its defense is (except against special/rare skills that ignore defense).
DEVILMONING = Using “devilmon” to provide skill-ups to a monster. Devilmon are very difficult to obtain and should only be used very carefully.
DOT = Damage over Time = A commonly-reference status effect in battle in which the monster loses 5% of their total health each time it is applied (NOT 5% of the current health). Rather than new DOTs overriding old DOTs, multiple DOTs can be applied simultaneously. For example, a monster with two DOT effects on it would lose 10% of its total health, while a monster with three DOT effects would lose 15%, etc.
DPS = Damage Per Second = The rate in which a monster is apply to inflict damage.
F2P = Free to Play = Someone who doesn’t spend money on the game.
FAKE NAT 4/FAKE NAT 5 = A monster that is summoned awakened, and therefore with one more star than it typically has. A fake nat 4 is a monster that is a nat 3 while a fake nat 5 is a monster that is a nat 4.
FARM = To repeatedly perform an action
FARMABLE = A monster that can be gotten through a means other than chance. This term is not used consistently beyond this, and sometimes includes monsters that used to but can no longer be obtained via Hall of Hero events.
FARMER = A monster used to farm, typically a monster used to farm experience. Having a single powerful monster clear a stage without any other monsters needing to help it allows the other three monster slots to be filled with fodder.
FARMING GUILD = A guild that intentionally uses weak defenses so that it doesn’t have to rise too high in the rankings or fight too difficult an opponent.
FODDER = Monsters leveled up for the sole purpose of sacrificing them.
FOOD = Monsters that are fed to each other for skill-ups or evolution.
GB1/GB2/GB3/…/GB10 = Giant’s Keep B1/B2/../B10
GLASS CANNON = A monster that inflicts huge damage but cannot take very much damage.
GW = Guild Wars
GWO = Guild Wars Offense = Monsters good at attacking other monsters during guild wars.
GWD = Guild Wars Defense = Monsters assigned to defend during guild wars.
GZ = Congratulations
HOH = Hall of Heroes = The same as secret dungeons, but for a nat 4 monster of the game designer’s choosing. It is very difficult to collect monsters this way, but end game players are able to acquire dozens of them, primarily to skill-up other members of the family.
NAT1/NAT2/…/NAT5 = How many natural stars a monster has, or how many stars it typically comes with (how many stars it has when not awakened). This is a rough indicator of how rare and powerful a monster is with the higher the number of stars the more rare/powerful the monster is. There are, however, exceptions to this.
NB1/NB2/NB3/…/NB10 = Necropolis B1/B2/../B10
NOOB/N00B = A disparaging term for a person who is very new to the game, typically used by children who fail to understand that it is conceptually impossible to play a game without, at some point, having been new at it.
PLAYER LEVEL = Also known as account level, the number that appears next to your account name as opposed to over specific monsters. Whenever you increase in account level all of your energy is refilled and your maximum energy increases by one.
PROC = When something randomly occurring occurs. For example, when a monster with “violent” runes completes its turn there is a 22% chance it will immediately get to take another turn – if the monster gets that additional turn then he violen proc’d. (This term comes from fancy-pants computer jargon, “programmed random occurrence”, but you don’t need to worry about that.)
R1/R2/R3/R4/R5 = Rift Raid level 1/2/3/4/5 = The very-end raid dungeon within the Rift of Worlds where you fight a giant beast along with a couple of other players.
Rainbowmon = Monsters that exist to be sacrified to other monsters for the purpose of helping those other monsters evolve. These monsters can’t be brought into battle, and so under most circumstances you shouldn’t try to level them up. When these monsters are first acquired they are already ready to evolve, and so most players will first sacrifice monsters to them and then sacrifice them to other monsters.
REP = Representative Monster = The one monster you chose to allow everyone on your friends list to borrow once per day; when looking at your profile a picture of this monster will be shown next to your account picture.
RNG = Randomly occurring
RNGESUS = A play on a combination of “Jesus” and “RNG”; Rngesus is the hyperbole “God of Summoner’s War”.
S1/S2/S3 = Skill 1, Skill 2, Skill 3 = When in battle, the first skill that you can use all the way to the left is skill 1, the second is skill 2, and the third is skill 3.
SALTY = Within the context of Summoners War, it is resentment and crankiness regarding the good luck of other when one’s own luck is considered to be worse.
SD = Secret Dungeon
SUSTAIN = The monster’s ability to remain alive over long periods of time, specifically due to healing or leeching life or ressurecting itself.
SQUISHY = Monsters that have low health and defense and are easily killed.
SW = Summoner’s War
TOA = Tower of Ascension
Thanks to user ‘KitsuneKarl’ for help creating this Summoners War Guide.