We’ve been playing CSR Racing 2 a while now and have noticed a few people asking about beginner tips and also an advanced guide While we’re not a top level player, we would like to share our opinions and experiences about this game. We wouldn’t really consider this a guide, it’s just some suggestions that should be helpful if you’re just starting out or have played this game for a while as advanced players. You can find a general guide to CSR Racing 2 with more tunning and other tips in this post.
CSR Racing 2: Ultimate Guide 2018 with Tuning Tips
RP(respect points) & Crews
As you do things in CSR2, you again RP. To progress in the game, you want to gain as much RP as you can. If you’re in a crew, you will reach milestones as a team and gain some rewards along the way. You can play the game as an individual, but being in a crew gives you a few more benefits. You will soon find out being in a good crew may require you to gain “X” amount of RP each season and starting out, that’s gonna be difficult. The solution is rather simple; start your own crew & invite other beginners to join your crew. It’ll cost you some gold, but will pay off over time. When you’re ready, promote someone else to leader and step away from your beginners crew and join a top crew. Some ways to gain RP: Ladder Races Regulation Races Crew Battles Tuning Trial Supply Cup Prestige Cup Prize Cup Crew Cup Daily Battles Live Races Upgrade a car Customize a car
What are PP and EVO
These are the numbers under the name of the car. PP is the BHP of the car in stock or upgraded form & Evo is the extra performance you get for using fusion parts or tuning your car. For example, you’ve got 300 +100. In this, 300 is the PP and +100 is the EVO or EP as NM refers to it. Does this mean 400 total? NO! Most people think its more likely to be: 300 + (100/10) = 310 in total (this is just a guess only NM knows the true value of those 2 numbers combined).
For tier 1 through tier 3, in live races, it’s usually best to have a low PP and a high EVO (you’re aiming for an EVO of somewhere between 500-700+). After we had been playing for a couple months, we stumbled upon a video that talked about how to win keys in live racing using a Golf GTi, so we upgraded the NOS, tires, and trans on a GTi (one we had gotten from a crate) and left everything else stock, added fusion parts to those upgrades, tuned it, and found it was a pretty good way to start out grinding for keys. The numbers for that build and tune were 231 +527 (we kept track of those numbers, because we were curious if it would work and wanted to remember them if it did.).
For tiers 4 & 5, have a tune that can race close to, or slightly under, your dyno time and has an EVO of somewhere between 700-1000+; this is your goal. You’re looking for a 50% win ratio. Winning a lot of races in a row & having a win ratio over 50% feels great, but it will usually bump you into a faster lobby (e.g. you will be forced to race faster & faster opponents). It’s also important to find the right lobby for any live racing you do. If you lose several in a row (and they are killing your run times), back out and re-enter. There are a lot of complaints about match-making in the multi-player part of CSR2 and sometimes we get frustrated as well, but with time and effort, you can do it.
Cars with Stars
These give more RP than the non-starred version and have more fusion slots, making them quicker in the end (compared to the non-starred version).
Don’t just use them on random cars in CSR Racing 2. It’s better to use them on specific cars.
Ways to get fusion parts
First, win some bronze keys in live racing. Second, collect the free bronze crate Donna gives you every four hours. Next, get a part from winning a Daily Battle. Also, race every cup & trial race you can to win fusion parts &/or keys. Lastly, buy cars and strip them for fusion parts (for example, you can buy more t1 Fiesta STs to strip to get fusion parts for your t3 Mustangs or buy more t2 m235i to strip for your t3 BMW M4s). You will not get Mustang or M4 stage 6 fusion parts this way, but rather common, rare, and epic parts which are usable on any Ford or BMW cars in the game (Ford for Ford and BMW for BMW). To get stage 6 parts for the Mustang or M4, you would have to strip Mustangs and M4s.
Keys in CSR 2 Racing
It’s usually best to use silver and gold keys during 10x or 20x events. Soon after a new season starts, there will be a multiplier for the seasons Prestige car. With the Prestige car, you can do the Prestige Cup and potentially earn a lot of RP, however, just starting out this can be a little difficult to do, because upgrades can be cost prohibitive and you need to be in a crew. There’s no guarantee that you’ll get that car, but your chances of pulling what could be one of “your” solid early cars is a little better than just randomly wasting keys on non-multiplier crate openings.
Keys, part 2
People will claim to have a system that pulls the best cars. We believe the car you get is random, but feel free to do whatever you think will give you the best chance to pull that f40, Laferrari, or supercar of choice.
What is the best use for Gold?
IMO, the best use for gold in CSR Racing 2 is to re-fill your gas tank. More fuel PiPs equals more RP. If you use it to speed up your upgrades, that’s not going to be efficent. Just wait and do several of your upgrades at once when you’re away from the game. One other possible use would be a one time gold purchase of your first good car which, we believe is the Porsche 718 Boxster S. It’s a solid t2 car.
Cup & Trial races
A lot of the time, you’ll need a specific set-up to race in a cup or trial event. Our first thought was “Dang, now we have to waste time building that specific car.” This was not true; down-grade or adjust a car you have to meet the requirements of the event.
Goals in CSR 2 Racing
The arrow on the left side of the screen has a pop-out window with icons at the top. The trophy icon has goals to reach, try to do them each time there are some shown there.
I can’t get enough cash to upgrade my cars
Let’s assume you have progressed enough to have the t3 “pro” regulation race available, but you’re struggling to beat that level. Now, let’s assume you have pulled a 3 star Nissan GT-R (R35) Premium from a crate. Just use that car for the t3 pro regulation race. Yup, a stock t4 GT-R can be raced in the t3 regulation race and you can beat it. Most stock higher tier cars can win lower tier “pro” regulation races, provided you can drive them well enough. In other words, use a stock t2 car to win cash in t1 regulation races then use a stock t3 car to win cash in t2 regulation races and so on. If you pull a t5 car from a crate use it to “farm” the highest tier pro regulation race you have open that you can constantly win. High stock grip is the key, your gonna have more PP.
IMO, it’s best to upgrade the NOS, followed by the tires, then the trans so you can tune the car ASAP. From there, it’s a matter of preference. We usually do intake, followed by turbo, then engine, and end up upgrading body last. This, mind you, is our own, personal approach. A couple other things to consider about upgrading cars: If your patient enough, wait on getting tier 3, 4 & 5 starred cars to upgrade. That’s hard to do because you want to progress through the game, but it will be more efficent. If you have to use non-starred version, just do the minimal amount of upgrades you can to achieve your objective. Lastly, we wouldn’t use any stage 6 upgrades on non-starred cars.
Tuning a car in CSR Racing 2
(((beginner’s technique))) Upgrade NOS to at least stage 2 Upgrade Tires to at least stage 3 Upgrade Transmission to at least stage 4 You’ll need these upgrades at a minimum to tune a car.
Tune Nos, then final drive and finally tire pressure to the highest EVO. Then buy a dyno test, write down the dyno time, then tweak each one & check to see what setting gives you the lowest dyno time (t1-t3 look at 1/4 mile times, t4 & t5 look at 1/2 times). Now make a few test runs and see if you can match the dyno time. If it’s hard to drive & you can’t get the dyno time just down-tune it until you can get it. It’s real important to practice the launch and shift points. Sometimes a car will run better at different launch rpm & shift rpm than hitting the recommended launch and shift, or the green, indicator every time (meaning experiment with these to figure out your best run time). It’s also important to know that tier 2 and above live races use a launch button. You’ll need to master this, but it can only be practiced in live races, so don’t be making silly bets in the beginning.
What car(s) do we use? Below are a few suggestions for cars to start out with. These cars can be purchased with in-game currency. Hopefully, you’ll get a starred version of tiers 3, 4 & 5 but if not, it’s okay to purchase them because you can strip them later.
T1: VW Golf Gti (you’ll want 2, will explanation later)
T2: BMW M235i (However, the Porsche 718 Boxster S is the best t2 car, if you wanna spend Gold)
T3: Ford Mustang GT or BMW M4 Coupe (because you can buy t1(fiesta) or t2(m235i) cars and strip them for fusion parts)
T4: Nissan GT-R (R35) Premium
T5: Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 (again, because you can buy more and strip them for fusion parts)
If you buy this car or get it from a crate, it’s a blessing and a curse, because it will run faster than its dyno time and at some point put you into lobbies where you lose almost every time. Our suggestion here is simple: begin by live racing the stock version then throw on an upgrade every once in awhile (start with the 3 that let you tune).
“Starred” cars you’ll want to upgrade right away if you get them early from a silver or gold crate. People usually ask, “What’s the best car?”. IMO, these are pretty soild for their tier. t1: Gti t2: 718 Boxster S t3: LB M3 E92 Coupé (mainly because you’re able to purchase m235i & M4 to strip for fusion parts & its a 4 star car) t4: F40 t5: Laferrari
You’ll probably get a starred version of the 650’s, 570’s, 700-4, &/or 488 early and think “These are nice..”. These were some of our t5 early crate pulls. We think we get these somewhat early to help us get through t5 ladder, crew battles and regulation races. Try not to use a lot of fusion parts on them. Better cars will come and you’ll wish you hadn’t used so many fusion parts on them( you’ll probably pull a few t4 cars early as well).
Why two Golf Gti?
The first one is for general game use. Upgrade everything to stage 5 and add fusion parts, as you can. The second one is for live racing. Upgrade the transmission, NOS, and tires to stage 5 and leave everything else stock, adding fusion parts, as you can. Try to get the EVO as high as possible when tuning it then learn what rpm to launch it, shift it, then start live racing it. Try to achieve around a 50% win ratio; that’s your goal. Remember, beating the dyno over and over will get you bumped into faster lobbies. One other thing/, if someone challenges right after they lose, it COULD be a set-up to a big bet.They are probably trying to sandbag you into a big fat loss.
Using Youtube for Tuning in CSR Racing 2
Here are a few videoes we think provide helpful information when starting out
(We don’t know any of these people personally, but we think this is helpful info.).
We suggest you start here: CSR2 Golf GTi Tune SetUp Max Power v1.11 NO STAR (it’s a no star build)
Next, we would look at this video: CSR 2 | Winning Tier Boss Cars Easy – Best Cars for cash and Times
Then move to: CSR Racing 2 Tune T3 Chevrolet Camaro SS 1/4 Mile!
This video is older, so please remember MN can tweak numbers whenever they want, but this is an example of a basic set-up & tune for a t3 car with no stage 6 or fusion parts that can be used for t3 regulation races. It shows you that you don’t need stage 6 upgrades and a lot of fusion parts to play through some game content.
(you’ll need two cars for each part of the challenge, one for time trials and one to race for the Boss car.)
Do a little Youtube or Reddit research for boss times. Make sure you have the latest results for the time to beat them. Natural Motion has tweaked the number before, so they could do it again. Don’t do that last race until you’re 100% sure of the time it takes to win the car, you will not get a second chance.Winning the t3 race against Amelia is important. The LB M4 Coupe you win is pretty fast, once it’s upgraded and tuned. Here are our suggestions for Tempest 1. Don’t use your faster cars for the time trials save those for the Boss Races
Tempest 1 Time Trials (several cars will work, provided to have the right build & tune)
1 Any t1 car that will run under a 12.900 1/4 mile (except the GTi & Fiesta ST) 2 Any t2 car that will run under a 11.500 1/4 mile (except the 718 boxster, A45 & C4 spider) 3 Any t3 can that will run under a 10.100 1/4 mile (except any 3 or 4 star car) 4 Any t4 car that will run under 14.100 1/2 mile (except the GT-R) plus read comment below 5 Any t5 car that will run under a 11.900 1/2 mile (except a 610-4 or f12) When we say “any” car for a tier, except “X” car, this would also include never using a car with 4 or 5 stars for a time trial. For example: you would never use an f40 or Laferrari for time trials. “Why?” you might ask- once you win a time trial the car gains “elite” status then you can not use it to race the boss or Tempest 2 time trials.
Here are the cars we used for Tempest one & two time trials
1 no star Cooper S
1 star Cooper S 2
1 star M235i
1 star Exige Sport 350
3 no star Hellcat(wasted gold)
2 star Mustang GT 4
3 star Viper GTS
3 Star Vanquish 5
3 star 650’s 3 star 700-4 It’s important to note that Tempest 2 time trials are a little harder then tempest 1
Tempest 1 Boss Race (We suggest these cars, just make sure you can consistently beat the boss time before trying to win the car. You still have to drive it correctly.)
1 VW Golf Gti
2 Porsche 718 Boxster S
3 BMW M4 Coupe
4 Nissian GT-R
5 Lamborghini Huracan LP 610-4 or f12 Berlinetta
Boss Cars in general
It’s best to think of these as trophy cars in CSR Racing 2. The first set of cars you can win, let’s call them “the story line” cars. They are not that difficult to win, except for in the t5 race it’s pretty hard to win without a good car that has at the very least stage 5 upgrades and several fusion parts. Just be sure to watch Mille’s “boss car” video and you should be able to win the first four without much trouble. Okay, now you have won all five cars, now what do you do with them. To be honest, they’re just not that useful. You could add fusion parts and use them for things such as events, regulation races, or even live race them. The problem is, the cars you just used to win those boss cars are better once you’ve added several fusion parts, however, they are good enough to get a few wins in the next tier of the game and people do live race them, making the decision up to you. We have seen a few story line cars with the “elite” tag so they had to win a time trial to get that tag. We never tried them in the Tempest 1 time trial, but this must be possible or they would not have the tag.
Finally, Special offers
Once in a while, you’ll get a pop-up for some special offer in the game. Sometimes they can be really good, if you want to spend a little cash. IMO, the premium currency in CSR2 is silver & gold keys. When it comes to bronze, however, not so much, but silver & gold keys are usually okay to purchase in the beginning. It only makes sense for them to offer you deals to draw you in and common theory says you’ll get better cars early so you’ll keep playing.
Don’t forget to check out our first CSR Racing 2 Guide.
More tips and tricks for CSR Racing 2
Do you have more Tips and Tricks for CSR Racing 2? Then please get in touch in the comments. We will then steadily expand this article, to offer a comprehensive guide to the game.